Blog
Hit Play: Five Eight
posted on Tuesday, October 16, 2018
Yes, that same Indo swell where a 30-foot boat was demolished. The same one where the best big wave surfers in the world wore impact vests and ensured their step-ups were thoroughly waxed.
Well, while everyone else examined their inflatable vests, Lee Wilson had nothing but a pair of trunks, a broken step-up, and his trusty custom 5'8".
"I had a shorty and a 5’8" slab board I designed with my shaper [Chilli Surfboards]. On the way to the airport I picked up two stockies", Lee Wilson recalled about the trip. "When I got there, it was about three times bigger than I expected, and to be honest, I felt pretty insignificant out there. [...] Big Wednesday came and I ride a stock 6’2" and ended up wiping out so bad (I have trouble riding step-ups) and I sat the rest of the day out and watched. It was terrifying, even from the beach", Lee continued. "Honestly, I knew the next day was gonna be solid as well and when I woke up it’s flames. I took a out my 5’8" and got some really fun rides. I dare say I had the trip of my life."
Hit play and watch two minutes of Lee and his 5'8" all cut to some delightfully quick slow-mo.
Filmed & Edited by Carlo Coral
Via www.brixton.com
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